Authors
Ryan J Lowe, James L Falter, Marion D Bandet, Geno Pawlak, Marlin J Atkinson, Stephen G Monismith, Jeffrey R Koseff
Publication date
2005/4
Journal
Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans
Volume
110
Issue
C4
Description
A 2 week field experiment was conducted to measure surface wave dissipation on a barrier reef at Kaneohe Bay, Oahu, Hawaii. Wave heights and velocities were measured at several locations on the fore reef and the reef flat, which were used to estimate rates of dissipation by wave breaking and bottom friction. Dissipation on the reef flat was found to be dominated by friction at rates that are significantly larger than those typically observed at sandy beach sites. This is attributed to the rough surface generated by the reef organisms, which makes the reef highly efficient at dissipating energy by bottom friction. Results were compared to a spectral wave friction model, which showed that the variation in frictional dissipation among the different frequency components could be described using a single hydraulic roughness length scale. Surveys of the bottom roughness conducted on the reef flat showed that this hydraulic …
Total citations
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Scholar articles
RJ Lowe, JL Falter, MD Bandet, G Pawlak, MJ Atkinson… - Journal of Geophysical Research: Oceans, 2005