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Wonderland", the vast region surrounding Mt Bosavi has changed little in the intervening years. Characterised by swamps and marshy plains rising to undulating ridges, plateaus and foothill ranges, the region is covered with heavy rain forest watered by over 500 cm of rainfall per year. The leached out soil supports a meagre population averaging less than one person per square kilo-metre." The region was the last portion of Papua New Guinea (PNG) to be derestricted due to the prevalence of cannibalism. Raiding and counterraiding continue in remote parts of the area to the present day. The Government post and airstrip at Nomad River has, since 1963, been the last outpost of civilisation, introducing the peoples of the region to the wonders of the 20th century: health care, education, and of course, governmental control, epitomised by the patrol officer and his entourage of policemen with ever-present guns. Made …